Wisdom of the Forum (WOTF)

This page contains a list of un-official fixes, troubleshooting and cross references for parts from other makes and models that will work on the 950/990.

Orange = KTM Part Number

Subject Index (click to find your subject)

Noisy cam chain:
shawty950: 950/990 Cam Chain Tensioners
60036003000 TIMING-CH.TENS. HYDR.(75YM) 03

uk_mouse: Brand new tensioner length = 48.8 mm

KOTH: See uk_mouse's How-to on the cam chain HERE.

Kamanya: I have had a noisy engine since day dot. (not to mention numerous other well documented hassles). Recently I have has some oil issues too. Twice I have been really on it for extended periods and when I stop and do an oil level check just for peace of mind my oil level has been way over full when I know that for hundreds of kilometres before it has been sitting where it should?

The clatter has been getting progressively worse and all the numerous threads on cam chains and cam chain tensioners prompted me to send the bike in for a last time to try get rid of the clatter under warranty. The noise if I try to define it sounds like cam chain clatter from both front and rear cylinders coupled with something very faint, more of a ticking up near the front cylinder head. Personally I was pretty sure that maybe the chains were stretched. The best they could do was replace the cam chain tensioners and apparently prod and poke and give the bike back with no apparent change in noise level. The mechanic said that he had been advised to by KTM to use a heavier oil but didn’t have any in the shop. He said he was advised to use Shell Helix 60 weight oil. Oil developed for older engines. To me this was a cop out as all it was going to do was mask the symptom. But what can you do?

So, off to our vacation house and yesterday I decided to go and see if I could get hold of any of the oil he was talking about a try an oil change myself. The shop had some, so back to the bike, checked the filters and changed the oil, put the left tank back on and started her up. At first it sounded much better but as the temperatures bars went from zero to 4 bars the racket got worse than before!? It really didn’t sound good at all. Even my wife who knows nothing about bikes commented that it was very loud. I felt like taking it out on a ride and making it an insurance problem.

After a bit of a search on the net, looking for KTM 950 and Shell helix I came across this post; http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=helix

Taki had experienced exactly the same symptoms as me! This got me to thinking that I must have some sort of pump/oil problem and this problem had now been exasperated by the heavier oil. Checking through the shop manual at the section on servicing the oil pumps – which would be a bitch to get to as you have to split the cases to get to both of them – I noticed the next bit has a part on servicing the oil bypass valve.

This valves function is to keep the oil pressure with engine at operating temperature (oil temperature 100ºC in oil tank) between min. 0,8 bar at 1500 rpm to min 2,4 bar - max 3,5 bar at 6000 rpm. Also the spring has some tolerances;

Bypass valve Length of spring, unloaded min. 41.5 mm
Spring tension 27 mm at a load of at least 3.5 kg

NOTE: different pistons were installed starting with engine number
2-600-00773. Engines of an earlier make must be converted; see
Technical Information, Chapter 1.

As I didn't take photo's, this is the manuals shot of it. The slot below to the left is where the oil screen goes and the major bearing above is where the clutch would be.


Aha! So, I phoned the mechanic told him of my findings and asked him about this valve. He knew about it and said that there was a factory order to change the piston on some of the earlier models and that it was possible to get to the spring if the clutch cover was removed. He said that as I had just filled the bike with new oil, instead of re-draining the oil that all I had to do was lay the bike on its left hand side and work from there.

It requires the front exhaust header be removed and the coolant is drained before you start. Once this is done, you don’t need to take the pump impeller off to get the clutch cover off. You don’t need to take the outer clutch cover off either it can stay bolted to the main clutch cover. As the bike is lying on its side getting the circlip and the washer that sits behind the spring without dropping it into the engine is almost impossible without a shop cloth stuffed under the valve and into where the oil screen sits.

Getting it out needs right angled pusher circlip pliers that can reach at least 3cm. You cant get the piston out as it won't clear the case before it is completely clear of the tube it sits in. My spring was 40.52mm. I stretched it to 47mm and put it back.

Putting it back was a mission of note mostly as there is not much space and it requires 2 more pairs of hands. All I can say is hold the pliers tight and use the circlip and a finger to push the whole story home. I buttoned everything back up filled the coolant and ran it up to 4 bars. It seemed to be great and it was a lot less noisier.

I went for short 50k ride. It is much quieter, not as quiet as some I have heard but a vast improvement on what I had before. Also the ticking has gone. But a big bonus is that it is noticeably stronger by far. My beast is back. So, it could be that the Bypass spring gets tired and this is the cause of a lot of the pressure hassles that manifest in a variety of ways from cam chain and tensioner issues to over full oil tanks. I would rate the check as a 2 on a scale of 5 as to difficulty to fix and requires the following if you lie the bike on its side;

Circlip pliers
Antifreeze
Torque wrench for the clutch cover bolts.
Shop cloth
Patience.

Ignition Rotor:
KOTH: It has come to my attention that some folks are doing the Ignition Rotor Tech Bulletin and not using the proper locking compound on the bolt threads. Loctite "Blue" is not the proper product for the Ignition rotor bolts. That is a thread locking product designed for use on fittings that are meant to be removed fairly easily with "normal" hand tools. The rotor bolt threads and their mating threads in the rotor must be thoroughly degreased, and Loctite 648 "Green" applied. 648 is a Cylindrical Part Bonding Compound for parts that are meant to NOT be removed. This is the product specified in the KTM Tech Bulletin of 10-14-2004 (0410/39/01-E). Anything less and you "may" have problems in the future. Here is a link to a good source for Loctite 648, in case you're having trouble finding it:
http://www.greenskyadventures.com/loctite/loctiteCart.htm

Drive Chain Slack:
cpmodem: Due to the differences in suspension travel of the different years and models, the amount of slack when on the centerstand will vary. IOW, to get the right adjustment, each bike must be measured using the "wheel spindle, swing-arm bearing bolt and the front chain-sprocket centerline" method.

Ask two of your biggest friends to sit on the bike and compress the rear suspension to the point where the wheel spindle, swing-arm bearing bolt and the front chain-sprocket centerline are all in line. That is the point of maximum chain tension. Or you can compress the bike's rear end with a ratcheting tie down. Free up and down movement at the middle of the chain's bottom run should be about half an inch (13 mm) with the suspension compressed.

Then put your bike up on the centerstand, or sidestand if you don't have a centerstand, and measure the slack at the midpoint in the chain with reference to the swingarm. Write this measurement down, then you can easily check your chain without your friends in the future. Many folks use something they will always have with them for reference, like fingers, hand, tool, block of wood, etc. so they can make quick checks without digging out the tape measure.

Valve Shims:
kamanya: Valve Shim Calculator

paochow: Here are the part numbers for the HD shims (ed:10mm which fit the LC8 engine) for the common sizes...
Part# Shim size (mm)

emelgee: Aprillia also use the same size shims in their V-twins, and they do the half intervals as well.
If you're doing yours for the first time then it's a good idea to pop the cams out and note down the shim sizes, even if they're within spec.
Next time round just order a set 1 size down from the current sizes before you start work so you've got them on hand to swap if needed. The clearances usually get smaller as things bed in, so you're unlikely to need larger shims than the ones in there already.

Engine locking bolt:
Vintage Thumper: If you want the official bolt, it's 0113080802. If you want to make your own, it's 8mm x 80mm x 1.25mm thread pitch. As Tim said, it has about a 30 degree point on one end, and is machined for a hex key in the other. But I'm sure a regular screwdriver slot would work too. Here's a pic...
http://forums.ubi.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/4881084714/m/4111000334

Speedo Re calibration:
jaydee1445: If you change the wheel size on the speedo to 19 in. the speedo will be dead on. Change the mode to the fuel warning countdown page, then push and hold both the set and mode buttons for 10 seconds. When the wheel size comes up change it with the mode button to 19 then press set. Your odometer will be slightly off on the low side but the speed will be right on.

Jump Starting/Charging:
cpmodem: After mounting crash guards, some folks have found it time consuming to get to the battery terminals on their 950's. The 990's have a handy place to connect a charger to on the right side beneath the plastic cover above the skid plate. These parts can be added to 950's to give them the same convenience.
Click on the image for a larger view

Here's a parts list (you might get by with less, butt this will do the full convert) Prices as of 11/2007:

60111059000 BATTERY CABLE 250MM 06 6.50 $6.50
60111097000 GROUND CABLE 100MM06 6.50 $6.50
60111056000 BRACKET STARTER RELAY 06 18.50 $18.50
60111048000 POSITIVE POL EXTENSION06 7.00 $7.00
60111048020 HEXAGON NUT M6 SW=13 L=20 4.50 $4.50
60111048035 COVER CAP OUTER 06 4.50 $4.50

Total: $47.50

AntWare: You can start the bike by jumping across the starter relay on the lower right side, and thus bypassing the ignition and solenoid.

Take off the right plastic engine guard, use the plastic handled screwdriver in the toolkit to jump across the two bolts just above the #3 in the bottom picture.

Make sure the bike is in nuetral, and don't hold the screwdriver on there too long
Good luck

Battery Problems:
Head2Wind: Disconnect the positive lead at the and then put an amp meter in line. preferable to use a digital meter. cheap to pick up if you don't have one. with everything turned off there should be no current showing. disconnect the previous configuration, turn meter to DC volts and check the battery voltage, should be near 12.7 vdc or so. if it is not, charge for about 12 hours, check voltage right after you take it off the charger, then about one hour after that. let it sit for a week or so disconnected as described and then check the battery voltage again. if it has dropped significantly then the battery that you just purchase is also toast. if it is low voltage I would connect the battery back to the bike, attempt to start it (if not enough, then charge it) then check the running voltage (charge voltage). it should be 13.5-14.7, if it is 15 vdc or greater then then the regulator is not functioning correctly. if it is NOT 12.5 or better then either the regulator/rectifier is not working correctly or the stator/alternator is on the fritz.

The only thing that I have ever found to be a load while "turned off" was a regulator/rectifier that was faulty. granted this was not a KTM (it was a mid 80s Yamaha-typical poor electronics of the day)

Hair: The Yuasa YTZ14S MF was built for a Honda product. Since that time the battery as been OEM specked on other bikes. This battery is only built in Japan. Yuasausa keeps a small inventory on hand. They don't want to stock to many of them. Because they want to keep the battery fresh. The battery is shipped from Japan fully charged. If the battery is not cycled that is it is left to sit on the shelf or in your bike. sulphate crystals build up on a plate. They well eventfully short out a plate. If you battery is changed it will take and hold a charge. But it no longer has the ability to produce a current. One of the problems that Yuasa has is that distributors and or sellers of this battery leave them on the shelf for to long.

KOTH: Here are links to some excellent info on batteries:
Battery FAQ
Another Battery FAQ
Also, the YUASA Battery Technical Manual and Yuasa Applications.

Finally, Understanding Electricity

OEM 950/990 AGM Battery

Brakes:
Kawidad: Or the front brakes are the same as the F650, using the same pads

mcmann: If you warp a stock rotor, or need a second set for a 19" front wheel, the 990S floating rotors work great and cost less. I just received my set of Part# 60109060000 300mm floaters from cheapcycleparts.com ($122.91 ea).
They also fit the 950SE.
I had a slightly warped stock rotor (stock pads are too hard). I was getting some pulsing.
I added Galfer green brake pads to the front and black Galfer pads to the back (no more squealing). I think I abused the front stock rotors because of the shrieking rear OEM pads - - - used too much front braking.
Feels very smooth with great stopping power.

KOTH: The rear floater from the 990 will also retrofit to all 950's. Said to be a cure for the well documented "rear brake howl." PN 60110060000

KOTH: There was a Tech Bulletin Recall on the rear master cylinder that addressed poor rear brake performance.

Hydrolock:
WOTF: It doesn't take much liquid in the cylinder to hydolock it. Slightly more than 40cc (1.4 oz) is all that's required to cause the big twin to lock up. To clear a hydrolock: put bike in 6th gear and rock backwards. Fuel/water will be pushed out the opening valves. Be sure to change the oil and filter ASAP due to the fuel/water leaking past the rings and contaminating the oil. The filter will swell closed and shut off oil to the bearings, etc.

Engine Firing Order:

KOTH: The LC8 engine's piston rods ride on a common crank journal. The cylinders are positioned 75 degrees apart, with cyl #1 being the front cylinder. The engine runs in a ccw direction (observed from ignition rotor side) and fires as follows:

1. Slightly before (depending on the ignition advance) TDC on the compression stroke cyl #1 fires.
2. 285 degrees of crankshaft rotation later cyl #2 fires (during cyl #1's exhaust stroke).
3. 435 degrees of crankshaft rotation later cyl #1 fires During cyl #2's intake stroke), and the cycle starts again.

Note: The coils actually fire the spark plugs each time the piston comes to TDC, but the engine only fires when there is a compressed fuel/air mixture (ie: every other upstroke of the piston).

Poor running, stalling, missing, cutting out:
rumpus: Intermittent cutting out.This happened to me this summer, and I'll bet you a beer you've got the same problem I had. The contacts in the ignition switch (which attaches to the bottom of the ignition lock on the handlebar) become loose over time, causing and intermittent fault.
I spent about 5 weeks trying to diagnose this problem on my 950, and I tested damn near every electrical part and connector on the bike before finding the source of the malfunction. My solution was to remove the switch from the bike (it unscrews from the bottom of the ignition lock), CAREFULLY and PATIENTLY disassemble the ignition switch, and gingerly stretch the springs which push the electrical contacts together. This operation requires a little delicate persuasion of press-fit parts, but it'll all go back together just fine if you're careful and take your time. The switch isn't really designed to be serviced in this way, but I've had mine back together for four months now and the problem has never resurfaced.
You can also buy the switch from KTM, but it comes as a kit with the lock and key and costs too damn much. The good new is, if you DO buy a new switch kit, you can install only the switch itself without the new lock and not have to use a new ignition key.

KOTH: osteo did much the same thing as above with photos.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4938291&postcount=18

WOTF: Loose (not fully seated) ignition coil(s) can cause poor running (feels like it's running on one cylinder part of the time).

WOTF: Loose connections at the battery terminals have been found to cause driveability problems. This should be one of the first checks in any case of poor running as it is easy and costs nothing.

cpmodem: In the case of a broken ignition switch, lost key, or broken switch wires, it is fairly simple to "hotwire" the 950/990. In the fuse box inside the glove box, simply jumper the Acc1 fuse to the Ignition, Headlights, and Instruments fuses (right three). Make up the jumper ahead of time and keep it on the bike for emergencies. Use a minimum of 2mm (14 AWG) insulated wire for your jumper. Be sure to connect the right three first. Leave the fuses in place and your circuits will be protected as usual. There is no additional load on any wiring as the jumper simply replaces the ignition switch in the circuit. The branch circuits remain un-altered. Jumpering to the other side (bottom side) will leave the circuits unprotected and may cause smoke to escape from the wires.

KOTH: Improper venting of the carbs can also cause poor running (usually a hesitation/miss/surge in the midrange). ie: surging in 6th gear at ~70-75 mph. Refer to Canisterectomy for proper venting. We've even had an Inmate with a 950 that wouldn't pull 6th beyond 4k RPM. "Fell flat on its face." The problem was carb vents that were terminated inside the airbox (a definite NO-NO). We've seen more problems with improper carb venting than anything else. Seems folks just can't get their heads around the fact that simple is best. K.I.S.S.

WOTF: Vacuum leaks. Check the seal between the carbs and the intake manifold. Also, check all vacuum lines for splits. Especially if you've had someone else do the canisterectomy, and they didn't follow proper proceedure and plug the un-used vacuum ports in the intake manifolds with threaded screws (m6x10, 1.0 pitch allen drive screws) and blue locktite. Symptoms are poor idle (irratic, dying, varying) and popping during closed throttle deceleration.

KOTH: If your bike idles fine at 1400 rpm when cold but stalls at the same rpm when warmed up, the idle circuit is too rich. Check the Idle Mixture Screws (IMS); they may be turned out too far. Standard setting is 2 to 2.5 turns out from "lightly" seated. If you've changed any jets, especially the idle or air jets, you will have a different IMS setting. If they haven't been adjusted, and the stalling started suddenly, check for blocked air jets. They are in the top of the carb under the air horn. The front one sometimes gets plugged with oil from the crank vent.

KOTH: For more on the subject of jetting this thread has just about everything you need: H2W Jetting Matrix

WOTF: A pinched wiring harness in the steering stem area has been known to cause intermittent electrical power failure. This usually manifests itself when the handlebars are turned fully one direction or the other, but not always. Usually the only way to troubleshoot this is to remove the protective wrap from the wire bundle and use a vom meter to buzzout each power wire from end to end working your way toward the steering head. It usually turns out to be a broken wire hidden beneath its own insulation.

KOTH: Another fairly rare issue that has come up on occasion is causing poor running. QA at Mattighofen has let a few fuel tanks get installed on bikes without proper cleaning of the interior. It seems that there is a white powdery residue left in the tanks during the manufacturing process. The owner will notice the engine cuts out and runs rough. There will be a white powdery residue down inside the throat of the carbs. This is a warranty issue, and KTM has covered the necessary work in the past. The fix is to remove the tanks and flush thoroughly with a nonflammable solvent until all residue is removed from the tanks. Then the carbs need to be cleaned thoroughly. A product like Surfoam has worked for some, but removal and disassembly of the carbs may be necessary.

Antware: The crankcase vent dumps into the throat of the forward carb. If the oil tank was overfilled at the pre-delivery or at the 600 mile service the front cylinder is getting oil dumped into it causing it to feel as though it is running on one cylinder and possibly smoking out of the right pipe.

WOTF: Fuel from the carbs or water from deep water crossings can swell the paper filter element also, which chokes off the air flow to the carbs and causes rich running (ie: bogging, dying at idle, poor performance, unable to get to redline).

KOTH: Note: The sidestand switch can also cause intermittent cutouts and stalls (see below).

KOTH: On the 990 FI bikes, replace the fuel filter inside the left fuel tank. Be sure you also replace the filter screen. Note: This screen clogging may also be a sign of manufacturing reside left in the tanks (see the full story in Fuel tank residue). It comes in the kit with the round filter 61007090000 FILTER-SET FUEL PUMP.

costamarques: Sometimes when my 990 adv is cold the automatic starter puts the idle at +/- 4500 rpm for about 10 s and then drops it to 1500 rpm before setting the normal idle speed.

It was the battery.
Like others, I've been having problems with the battery for the last two months or so. Since I use the 990 on a daily basis it was only when I left it parked for 2 or three days that the battery went dead, and I was forced to bump start it. But last week the battery problem aggravated and also the idle one so it hit me that the two could be connected and they were. Since I installed a new battery last Friday the problem with the idle was solved....

Hammer: Ever since I got this bike, when the tanks were filled the left one would overflow out the front vent. At first, I went to Baja on it, and the short vent hose splashed my leg and gave me a nasty chemical burn. I cut off part of my Camelback hose and lengthened the vent so it would dump on the ground. It would happen anytime the fuel could heat soak, and I didn't burn off at least a gallon as soon as I put it in.
When I rode the CDR, I stopped in Jackson, WY, got lunch, and the restaurant staff shit their britches cause there was gas leaking on the ground under the bike.
It sat with the sun on the right tank one day and in 45F weather put a lot of gas on the gorund.
I'd open the tank, and the left tank would be pressurized and overflowing. WTF?
I did a flapendectomy, problem was still there.
Then I found it. There's a check valve on the vent hose. It will let air in, but not out. If the gas heats up, vapor pressure forces it across to the left tank, and out the vent on that side.
Removed the check valve, and it's all healed!!!
And it only took a year to track it down....
Bottom line- if you have those f'in check valves on your vent hoses- get rid of 'em!

KOTH: Folks, you need to read and follow the instructions for the Canisterectomy and if needed, the Flappendectomy located elsewhere in the HOW.

Fuel Injection:
The following is a basic description of the 990's FI from the Repair Manual:

KOTH: Unlike the carbureted 950's, the Fuel Injected 990's only use the Secondary Air Control (SAS) during warm up to get the CATs up to operating temperature (Light off). The ECU handles the emissions with info from the Lambda sensors (and others) once up to temperature.

During cold start the engine requires a relatively rich mixture for smooth operation. So, the ECU operates in open loop mode with a fixed fuel map for the first minute or two of engine operation (depending on info from the temperature sensors) until the Lambda sensors have heated to operating temperature. By feeding air into the exhaust (secondary air), CO and HC are oxidized through after burning at temperatures over 600°C to form water and carbon dioxide. The resulting high temperatures also aid in bringing the CATs up to operating temperature more quickly.

To achieve efficient warm up operation, a high secondary air flow rate must be achieved within the first few seconds of engine startup, and the air flow rate must be maintained until oxygen sensor control is in operation. Air flow is maintained by the Secondary Air Control (AKA SAS or SLS). Once the Lambda sensors and catalytic converters have reached their operating temperatures, the solenoid valve cuts off the secondary air flow and the ECU goes into closed loop mode.

Air from the SAS during normal operations would result in false readings from the Lambda sensors. What a can o' worms that would be to factor into the map.

I see no reason to disable the SAS on the 990's.

Hard Starting:
kelly duke 2000: Hi guys, bought a 06 950 with 13,500 miles on it. Started and ran great but never had the valves adjusted since break in. Took the bike in and had the major service [$700.00] done. I get it back from the shop and now hot or cold it won't start unless I crank the shit out of it and add almost full throttle and add choke. Before the service I would choke, crank with no throttle, and it would start within a half a second.

It was an unconnected hose under the clutch side fairing by the turn signal connector.

kdscoates: I pinched a vacuum line and she was extremly hard to start but ran good once I started her!

eduardobibm: Same exact symtoms with my bike when I brought it used. Turned out to be a vacuum leak. I don't know the proper technical terms but one of the lines coming out of the intake manifold was open on one end. There are two (obviously) intakes underneather the carbs, with one small line coming out of each side. Trace these lines and check em. You can get to this with the tanks off.

jsrider: I thought I put my cams back on wrong and had a timing problem (loud backfire; stall)-. Turned out the grommets that sealed the airbox to the intake manifolds weren't on right.

KOTH: On the other side of the connector you need to tie the brown and pink wires together

KOTH: BTW, this doesn't work with the 990's or the 950 SE and SM due to the use of a HAL effect device on these models. Either ground the pink wire to chassis ground or see below.

cpmodem: Here's a another option for any 950/990, including the ADV, SE and SM.
Ground the green-black wire at the connector for the gear selector switch (#2 in the photo below). Down in front of the rotor cover on the left side of the engine). This will allow the ECU to provide ignition to the coils no matter what gear you are in, whether the kickstand is up or down, and clutch in or out. This will eliminate any possibility of one or more of the "safety" devices malfunctioning and killing the ignition. It will also allow the starter to work anytime the button is pushed And your green neutral light will stay on always. But, as I said this is not for "casual" use, but rather for emergency situations only. Like as a quick and easy way to bypass a failed safety device when one craps out in the boonies and you just wanna get home.

BTW, arrow #3 in the photo points to the sidestand switch connector where ABYSS's permanent fix is to be made.

Electronic Power Control:
KOTH: If you have the Electronic Power Control (EPC) system on your bike (all EU spec bikes 950/990 including early '04 USA), you can disable it by snipping the two wires that tell the ECU that the bike is in 2nd or 3rd gear. These are the gears in which the EPC limits engine acceleration to comply with European noise regulations. If you are not in Europe you likely don't have any noise tests to comply with. You will still want to remove the ECU valves from the 950's as they are subject to malfunctioning even when not connected to electrical. The connector for the gear sensor is #2 in the above photo.

yellow-brown = 3rd gear
grey = 2nd gear

FastEddy760: Pins Removed for Gear Sensor. It is easy, and this will help take the guess work out of the process.
1. Left side, follow wires from the gearshift and the side stand sensor (#2 in above photo).
2. Disconnect the plug, and put the side stand end to the side, it fits nicely over the flywheel cover, and out of the way.
3. You will be working on the end with the gray, yellow/brown, and green/black wires.
4. Use a small jewelers screwdriver inserted into the plug, and a little tension on the wire, to pop out the female leads for the gray and yellow/brown wires. Leave the green/black wire connector alone.
5. Cover the wires with shrink tube so they wont ground out.
6. Plug back together so the neutral switch will still work.

Fuel Pumps:
ridewestKTM: Stock pump pressurizes to 2.2 psi at carbs. It draws 1 amp when running (shuts off when fuel pressure is up). It pumps 23.4 liter/hr. It's 1.875" in diameter and 3.36" long. Has a vent to the point case (apparently). Brown wire is ground and dark wire is positive.
One other thing, the stock pump doesn't flow thru via gravity - it takes about 1/2psi to push gas thru it. The Facet 40105 flows easily.

Stock pump. The solinoid coil fires and pulls back a diaphram sucking in gas, and it does so against a spring. When pulled back the points open, so the coil is not doing anything. The spring pushes on the diaphram and if the carb's are not letting in the fuel it just sets there at about 2 psi. As the carb's pass fuel the spring pushes the diaphram and the diaphram pushes fuel to the carbs. When the diaphram has fully discharged that stroke's worth, the points close to refire the coil and draw back the diaphram. If allowed to flow fuel unrestricted it will suck and discharge 2 or 3 times a second. But the cycle rate is determined by the usage and the constant volume per stroke.

gefr: The solutions for the fuel pump problem are the following:
1) Facet 40105, correct head pressure 3-4,5 psi, leaks through, needs added check valve. 40104 proved insufficient and 40106 floods the carbs when operating as reported by kawidad. Model 40171 could be THE solution like cpmodem suggested months ago, if it proves sufficient in keeping the motor well fed, but its head pressure of 2 - 3,5psi is less than 40104 which is 2 - 4psi.
2) Carter , head pressure of 3 - 5,5 psi , leaks through as autostream and jsrider have reported. Is sold by NAPA as #P74021, needs check valve. Big advantage the fitment in the OEM rubber. More expensive than the Facet.
3) Airtex E8016S , head pressure of 2,5 - 4,0 psi , no problems have been reported, but very few believers, so very small specimen. Price reported at $52 by John Graves or $65 according to jameng with no flooding problems as of today. Fits in OEM rubber. The info given in jameng site is that the Airtex is a rotational pump. It seems identical to the carter pump so they propably are identical, both rotational and both flowing through. So they propably both need a check valve. Updated post.
All these solid state pumps need a filter to protect them. Cheers.

Pointman0853: The stock pump is a 'demand type'. Here is how it works. Upon start up, the pump cycles on for about 5 seconds, pressurizing the fuel line up to the carbs. Once the line is pressurized, the pump stays in the 'open' position and stops working (ie: the line is pressurized, we need no more fuel). As line pressure drops, the diaphragm in the pump collapses and the points make contact and the cycle repeats. Repeats that is, until the points burn out as in the pics above. Or you get it wet. Or it just decides you are now in a beuatiful natural setting and it doesn't care... it's just going to take a shite and leave your sorry ass right where you are...
The Facet 40105 is a floating piston pump. Here is how IT works. DC current is applied to an electronic circuit that converts the DC to AC, which for those of you in Rio Linda, CA. traslates to 'Alternating Current'. The Alternating Current is applied to a coil thereby creating an alternating magnetic field. Inside of this field is a metal 'shuttle piston' that now slides back and forth. A one way valve in the mechanism makes sure the fuel only goes up to the carbs, which is why there is a directional arrow on the pump housing. The looseness of the shuttle piston in its bore, insures that the pressure will not exceed a set amount. The pump just sits and buzzes fuel up to the carbs. all day long. One moving part, Homer Simpson simple!
Class Dismissed!

Dennis Douglas, Pillar Point Avionics, Inc.: The Facet 40171 pump is the type sold by Stoddard-Hamilton Aircraft , Inc. (360-495-8533) to serve as a transfer pump for transferring fuel from the auxiliary tanks to the main tanks. The 40171 costs about $54 each. The Facet 40105 and 40106 are sold by numerous suppliers, including Aircraft Spruce and Specialties (800-824-1930 (west); 800-831-2949 (east)), Chief Aircraft (800-447-3408), Wicks (800-221-9425) and others and typically used in the Zenith and other aircraft for transferring fuel from an aux tank to a header tank. The 40105/6 pumps cost about $28 to $32 each.

Physically, the 40105 and 40106 are identical. Both Chief Aircraft and Aircraft Spruce picture these pumps in their catalogs. The 40171 looks slightly different than the 40105 / 40106 models in that the inlet and outlet ends of the pump are about 1/4 inch longer than the 40105 / 40106 to accommodate the check and foot valves. (I haven't found any pictures of the 40171.) Functionally, there is a world of difference between the 40171 and the 40105 / 40106. All three model pumps have a "lift" capability and can draw fuel from at least 3-feet. All three move the fuel at about 0.5 gal/min, or about 30 gal/h when they are operating.

In the "OFF" state, however, the differences between the pumps become more obvious. At a 30-inch head pressure, the 40105 and 40106 pumps have a forward "leak" rate or drain rate of about 15 gal/h. These pumps thus flow freely in the forward direction at about one-half the pumping rate.... In the reverse direction, the 40105 and 40106 drain backwards at between 0.05 ga/h to about 0.25 gal/hr, with a mean value over a dozen tests with four different pumps of about 0.1 gal/h. (As a point of reference, 0.1 gal/h is about one drop per second). Compare these numbers to the 40171 pump, which showed no detectable leakage in the "OFF" state in either the forward or reverse directions over several hours.

You can identify the model by looking at the mounting tab on the pump. One side of the mounting slot will be stamped "40" and the other side will be stamped "105", 106" or "171".

KOTH: Numerous model pumps, including the 40171, are available with integrated anti-siphon or positive shut off valves. This valve prevents the flow of fuel through the pump when the power is disconnected. They are useful for certain applications where the pump and fuel destination are below the level of the fuel being pumped. They cannot be used in an application where it is desired to draw fuel through an unpowered pump.

Numerous model pumps are available with integrated check valves. These valves will keep the fuel lines full between the pump and carburetor when the power is shut off. They provide enhanced lift capability over the standard inlet valves.

cpmodem: No oil pressure cut off switch is required if you connect the new pump (Facet or whatever) to the existing fuel pump wiring (black-blue and brown). The ECU controls the fuel pump through the fuel pump relay. The ECU is also what allows the fuel pump to run for a few seconds when the ignition switch is first turned on, butt the engine isn't running yet. Once the engine is running, the ECU provides power to the fuel pump relay continuously. When the engine quits running, the ECU shuts off power to the fuel pump relay, thus keeping the pump from pumping fuel and creating a hazard in the event of a crash.

The OEM Mitsubishi pumps use a contact point interrupt mechanism to regulate its duty cycles. The Facet 40xxx series fuel pumps run continuously as long as +12vdc is applied to their inputs. My 40171 draws 740 ma while running.

Facet's fuel filter warning is generic for all positive displacement electric fuel pumps 'cuz many are installed in "non ECU controlled" systems. Also, always install a fuel filter upstream with these type electric fuel pumps. They have precise clearances that will eventually be damaged by crud in the fuel system.

slaw: For Facet pumps in the UK: http://www.partsforaircraft.co.uk/

Servicing the OEM pump points:
Yogoi: This is what I have done. (remove, open, clean). It easy, and has worked for me.

• Drop the skid plate.
• Turn off fuel valve.
• Pull off the two fuel lines (you can do it without cutting the clamps, but its easier to get rid of them and put regular hose clamps on).
• Unplug, and pull the pump and rubber housing down off the bike.
• Unscrew the philips head and pry off the black cap (It might sealed with some type of glue).
• You'll see the points. make sure there aligned and the screw that holds them is tight.
• Clean them with an electrical spray.
• Now the hard part is to get the black cap back on with to "O" ring seated right, and the rubber ring that seals the hole that the wires go through (you'll see what I mean, and its ok to swear a few times).
• Connect it all back to the bike and enjoy.
• Important. Make sure you route the breather tube correctly (the higher the better).

Carburetion:
Head2Wind: When I say 2.5 (which is the stock position) I am saying, thin shim/#2clip position/thick shim. 3.0 would be #3clip position/thin shim/thick shim ("parking" the .5 shim on top of the clip has no effect on needle position relative to the slide). In most cases when "going up one clip on the needle" most people leave the .5 shim under so therefore are really running in a 3.5 position. In very general terms what we are trying to do is get L1 (where the taper starts) and hopefully L2 if the needle is the correct length (and/or L3 if it is a tri tapered needle) in the best place for "transitioning" from 100% Pilot/low circuit through to 100% Main circuit. One of the documents that I reference a lot
http://www.keihin-us.com/am/_media/pdf/slide_valve.pdf
Granted it is for a mechanical slide carb, but the principles still apply. And this too:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/SlideNeedleMarked

Sidestand Removal:
WOTF: If you don't have a good aftermarket skidplate that protects the sidestand switch, common wisdom is to remove the entire sidestand and mount when going offroad. The reason is that if a hard object is struck with the exposed sidestand and/or mount it is possible to crack the engine case.

Before you remove your sidestand for good take a look at this:

Tip for tire bead-breaking on the 950:
Flanny: I've been meaning to post this for some time, but keep forgetting.
I discovered a trick for breaking the bead on the tubeless scorpions...

Set the wheel down next to your buddies side stand, (A heavy bike like a GS would de very well), and use the sidestand and bike weight to pry the tire down off the bead ...works like a charm.

If you have a 950 with a centre stand and sidestand, you can do this yourself. With the bike on the centrestand (and the rear wheel off obviously), take out the sidestand, and use it to pry the bead down with the weight of the bike ...piece of cake. So...no need to carry bead breakers etc.

cjracer: Video demonstrating sidestand tire bead breaker

Tires and Suspension for Offroad:
Sheep Shagger: Spokes are the same part# between the ADV and SE, so that means the hub's (apart from twin disk) are the same, so is the lacing / offset. So no reason why you can't just use a SE hoop.
6000907010030 RIM FRONT 2,15X21" BLACK 07 $291.99 - ADV
6300907000030 FRONT RIM 1,85X21"DIRT STAR 06 $241.99 - SE

cpmodem: There's a little confusion (don't worry, the pros are confused too) here. The OEM springs are rated in Newton meters per millimeter (nm/mm). Most aftermarket springs are rated in Kilograms per millimeter (kg/mm). thus the "slight diff in numbers. You will also note that the OEM spring is rated at 4.8 nm/mm. The aftermarket springs I use (Eibach) are rated at .52 kg/mm. note the position of the decimal point. FWIW, the OEM springs tested .46 kg/mm when 2 years old. Which is lower than spec. See the conversion tables at the bottom of this page.

Location of the ACC wires:
WOTF: Both are bundled together and ziptied to the fairing support. You don't have to remove the headlight assembly to access them (as in the photo). They are easily accessed by removing the right front fairing. ACC1=always on (yellow-red). ACC2=switched with ignition (red-black). Ground wires are also in the bundle. Later bikes will have the carb heaters connected to ACC2 (also same with retrofitted carb heaters on the early bikes). Fused with 5amp fuse on early bikes 2003-2004. Fused with 10 amps on all later bikes and those with carb heaters. Same size wiring (0.5mm) on all years.
(image by hitmike)

Fork Springs & Damping :
MAXVERT: James Siddell who is Super Plush Suspension, and I hear they do awesome suspension tuning on our bikes sends these fork spring lengths.
'04-'05 485mm
'05.5-'06 465mm which will fit the 990

James Siddell: The short answer is that the springs and the valving do two different and sometimes complementary things. If you want to (over) simplify things, you could think of it as a case where the spring force determines the position the suspension will settle to, and the damping determines the speed it gets there.
As I've said before, increased spring force will make your 950 work better, but not as well as a respring and revalve, because the lack of spring force is not the only problem with the stock setup. It lacks sufficient valving to control the wheel.
If you try to compensate for a lack of damping by increassing spring force, you will end up with a setting that has too much spring, and either rides high, or has no effective rebound control, or both.

Unfortunately the old school solution of thicker oil was a better solution for damping rod forks, and even they still needed modification to take advantage of that as the thicker oil increased both rebound and compression, generally making the rebound too much before the compression came good.
In modern cartridge forks, thicker oil is a bad idea as it cavitates more easily than the thinner oils.

Antware: Find it impossible to hold the hydro stop up and compress the springs at the same time while trying to get the spanner on?
Spot ties...

Checking Race Sag:
Paul Thede, Race Tech Suspension:
Step# 1 – Extend the forks completely (raise the front wheel off the ground) and measure from the wiper to the axle. This measurement is called “L1”.

“L1” Front Suspension extended
“L2” Rider on Board, Push Down, Let Up
“L3” Rider on Board, Pull Up, Let Down

Step #2 – Remove the bike from the stand, and put the rider on board in riding position. Get an assistant to balance the bike from the rear, then push down on the front end and let it extend very slowly. When the forks stop, measure the distance between the wiper and the axle. Do not bounce the front forks. This measurement is called “L2”.

Step #3 – Lift up on the front and let it drop very slowly. When the forks stop, measure again. Do not bounce the suspension. This measurement is called “L3”. L2 and L3 are different due to stiction in the seals and bushings, which is higher for telescopic forks than for rear shocks.

Step #4 –Halfway between L2 and L3 is where sag would be without drag or stiction. Therefore, L2 and L3 must be averaged and subtracted from L1 to calculate true sag.

Sag = L1 – [(L2+L3)/2]

Fork Seals:
Tim McKittrick: The seals on my 950 began to weep at 6K and I was distraught- I pulled the wipers down and wiped between the seal and the fork tube with a thin piece of plastic (actually a strip of trimmed 35mm film) and the leak stopped. I now clean them every 5K or so- the bike has 23000 on it and while I have a new set of seals and all the tools at the ready I don't plan on changing them any time soon.
Moral: clean the wipers regularly and the seals at every oil change. There is even a notation in the owners manual to this regard- at least about pulling the wipers down and cleaning them..

Rear Shock:
WOTF: Once the front forks are tuned for your weight and riding style, the rear shock should be tuned for the same. Rear race sag should be your starting point. This will help determine the proper spring. Valving in the PDS shock can be improved to yield a much more compliant ride for improved traction and control. For the maximum in shock compliance, consider replacing the remote reservoir piston with a bladder. The piston adds friction and inertia loads that slow the shock's ability to react to high speed changes such as sharp edged bumps. Many top riders report a much plusher ride with the bladder compared to the piston. I noticed an immediate improvement in ride over concrete expansion joints, railroad tracks, and washboard. For more info on tuning your suspension see:
Suspension Basics by James Siddell of Superplush.

Steering Head Bottom Bearing Removal Tip:
YOGOI: I pressed mine out. No problems.
I tried the "remove outer cage and tap down the inside race" trick, but it didn't work. The little lip that you can tap on easly broke before there was any movement of the race. I had a local machine shop press out the shaft, and off the bearing comes with it. Then I had them press the shaft back in. It took him 1 min. it was real easy, and he didn't charge me (tiped him for good Karma). I used the old race and to tap the new bearing on and all was good.

The 15 minute Idle Trick:
Superduke: It seems there's a little confusion about the so called “15 min idle trick”
If the dealer changed the mapping (maybe for a different exhaust ) he had also also to do the 15 min idle run. But we don’t want to change the mapping, we only want the EFI to “re calibrate. Because of the self learning EFI the “actual” parameters of the engine are measured and stored into the EFI as new basic information, if you do a 15 minute idle run.There is a good information about this in a document(page244) from KTM Sommer. http://download.ktm-sommer.de/SP_PDF...xx_240-259.pdf
I will try to translate the most important things you have to do.

Preparation:
Enough gas in the tank !
Do it outside , not in a closed garage and somewhere in the shadow.
You need also a stop watch.

What to do:
The bike must be in a vertical position – so don’t use the side stand for the procedure.
The engine must be cold.
Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes.
You are not allowed to use any functions of the bike in this time.
The time must not be less then 15 minutes and not more then 16 minutes.
If the engine stops running during this time, just restart it and let it run for the rest of the time.

Speedo Problem:
bobhclark: On my last trip the speedo started generating random numbers, then quit altogether. I found that the cable from the sensor had become frayed from chafing on the fender.

Overheating:
Low coolant level in radiator
Poor quality coolant
Radiator fins clogged/damaged
Driving too slow or too high gear
Fan thermostat b/o
Poor quality fuel w/ hi-octane wire connected
Fan wire disconnected
Fan fuse blown
Radiator cap not holding pressure
Air in system
Water pump impeller shaft not moving/dis-engaged (ie:circlips missing)

crwmac: In my experience with two 950's it is not uncommon for the radiator cap, even a new one, not to allow coolant to be sucked back into the radiator as the radiator cools. What is happening in lieu of that is that the radiator hose on the left side collapses as the coolant cools, contracts, and creates suction. As the coolant heats back up to operating temp and expands, the hose expands again to accommodate.
You can check to see if this is what is happening. When the bike is cold (let it sit overnight) take the left side cover off and see if the hose is collapsed. An additional check is to see if you get a swoosh of suction when you remove the radiator cap. If this is the case, I would try yet another cap.
Apparently there is not much difference between the negative pressure required to collapse the hose and the pressure required to suck coolant out of the reservoir. If the cap requires a little more negative pressure than needed to collapse the hose, then you get a collapsed hose. You could probably continue to operate that way as you suggest but I don't know what affect that will have on the hose in the long run. I suppose that would weaken it. Regardless, that's just not the way it is supposed to work.
I ride in the very HOT conditions of Texas (and Mexico, and New Mexico, and Colorado, and Utah) :-). I have found that after a coolant change, done by the book with the front end raised, you will still have a bit of air in the system. This bit of air doesn't cause much of a noticeable issue until you are in the worst of hot conditions, say 90+ degrees F in desert sand. I have found that burping the cooling system twice does the trick. I fill the coolant by the book and ride around for awhile to get the bike heated up with the fan cycling. Then I come home, let her cool off, and raise the front end for another burp at the radiator bleed screw and cap. I always find a blub of air in there on the second burp. Without the second burp, I can count on seeing six bars in the desert. With the second burp, I never see more than five bars. I suspect that riders in cooler climates never noitice the difference.

I too was considering how to mount a second fan before I figured this out.

Hope this helps,

uk_mouse: The water pump is driven by the balance shaft. As the balance weights have to move in sync with the pistons, the balance shaft has to rotate at the same speed as the crank. So pump RPM = crank RPM. 20 psi is about right, the radiator cap says "1.4 bar" on the top.

KOTH: Bleeding (burping) the Cooling System:

Water pump tube alignment:
Louge: I've replaced O rings twice in 2500 miles. The second time I packed the area between the O rings with waterproof lithium grease. The grease was held under compression and worked for awhile before the familiar drip reappeared.
I was about to replace them again when I noticed the angle on the tube didn't align with the water pump body. All of the O ring's tolerance is consumed due to poor alignment. The full story is here:http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138475

Water Pump Rebuild Tips:
HellsAlien:
1) suggest you drain the engine sump, pull the sump screen, then proceed with bike on sidestand. You wont get enuff drainage to matter, half-qt depending how long bikes been sitting around. Drain coolant first.
2) Suggest you not use lube on the OD. Heat the case and chill the brgs, work fast and they will drop in OK. Antiseize will only transfer heat and mess up this effort. Remember the snap ring between the brgs!
3) I don't recc dielectric grease; its for electrical connectors. I used wheel brg grease with good results so far. More important is to get a wrap of tape over the sharp end of the shaft exactly right so you dont cut the seal lip. Position the tape so it just covers the sharp edge. If too long it will stay under the seal & tear off when you pull the tape. (ed. teflon plummer's tape works well)
4) No. Better to have a spare shaft snap ring, they can get mangled depending on your expertise removing shaft & old seal.
5) Use a good fitting tool for driving the new seal in straight or use a press, preferred. The new seal may need some antiseize to help it go in the bore, is kinda tight fit. Have fun!

Speedzter: Changed mine at 29000kms, but was showing small coolant usage for the last 6000km or so. The shaft was lightly worn, and the seal had also worn, and had some black granular sediment trapped between the inner and outer lip. A tell tale sign was water/oil sludge around the front carby. No sludge on clutch cover. I think mine lasted as long because it had a coolant change very early on due to a pump cover leak. The dealer reported there was a lot of junk in the coolant when they drained it . I think they will last longer once the coolant is free of residue.

Blown Head Gasket:
KOTH: The head gasket performs several functions besides sealing the high pressure combustion gasses in the combustion chamber/cylinder.

1. It seals the coolant passages as they pass from the cylinder into/out of the head.
2. It seals the oil passages as they pass from the cylinder into/out of the head.
3. It seals the camchain tunnel between the head and the cylinder.

A "blown" head gasket (especially if caused by loose head nuts) can result in a number of "seemingly" un-related symptoms (signs). Overheating is not usually a symptom (but sometimes shows up later as a secondary sign, usually due to low coolant level or an air bubble).

1. High pressure combustion gases can enter the cooling system and force coolant past the radiator cap and into and overflowing the expansion tank.
2. The seal between the oil passages and the coolant passages can become compromised causing oil and coolant contamination and possible loss of (or low) oil pressure.
3. The camchain tunnel seal can be compromised allowing:
   • Combustion gases to pressurize the crankcase.
   • Coolant to enter the crankcase and contaminate the oil.

Oil leaks:
cpmodem: The oil pressure switch is one possibility, however oil leaks can come from many places. It is not always easy to determine the source as air currents many times will force oil to flow far away from their source. A very easy way to find the source of leaks is with a UV dye kit. I have used one to find some very difficult leaks that defied all other methods. The kits are available at most auto parts retailers.

Oil usage:
KOTF: The official KTM spec that must be exceeded before they consider an engine is using excess oil is .5L/1000 km. See Technical Bulletin 0508 for more info. If a bad head gasket or worn rings is to be determined, it must be done with a leakdown test.

cpmodem: If a leakdown test indicates that the rings are not sealing, there are a few measurements that you should make before simply installing new rings and bolting it all back together. You must also, make sure the cylinder is not worn. A check of ring gap is the first step. If the gap is too wide (more than .50mm) when inserted 10mm from the top of the cylinder, the cylinders need to be measured mid bore to determine if the cylinders need to be replaced.

Size I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100.000 mm – 100.012 mm
Size II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100.013 mm – 100.025 mm
Cylinder distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 0.05 mm

If replacing the cylinders, I would also replace the pistons. But check them anyways (even if the cylinders are in spec), as they may be worn beyond their useful life.

Size I – 9 mm (from lower edge) . . . . . . . . . . . . .99.953 mm – 99.967 mm
Size II – 9 mm (from lower edge) . . . . . . . . . . . . .99.963 mm – 99.977 mm . . . .99.930 mm
Mounting clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.04 mm – 0.06 mm . . . . . . . .0.10 mm

If the cylinders are in spec and the pistons within the .10mm wear spec you can get away with new rings. I would still have a "qualified" motorcycle machine shop "break the oil glaze" with the proper tools and using the proper procedures/techniques. Otherwise you stand a good chance of spending all your hard earned money and time and still having an oil burner. The Nicasil plating on the cylinder bores is extremely hard, and very thin (.003" - .005"). It cannot be machined properly without special tools and expertise. I recommend you not try to "recondition" the bores yourselves. Leave this to the professionals. A new cylinder is $400.

Oil Filters:

KOTH: The choices are basically paper or stainless steel mesh. The tightest bearing clearance in the LC8 is .080mm which is 80 microns. BTW, a paper filter is rated in average particle size. Most will pass much larger sized particles than the rating (over 300 microns in some cases). The Scotts will stop all particles 35 micron or larger. I prefer the Scotts for its resistance (imperviousness) to gas and water/coolant contamination which can be critical in the LC8 due to its design.

Hard Shifting:
Oil viscosity too thick
Worn out oil
Loose shift lever
Clutch lever out of adjustment
Bad clutch slave
Air in clutch fluid
Clogged clutch oil jet
Worn/wrong clutch pushrod
Clutch Booster worn
Warped clutch plates
Worn clutch basket
Worn shift drum

WOTH: Many reasons for clutch drag have been proposed over the years, but one theme seems to be prevalent in the majority of the reports.  Oil (or rather lack of it) to the clutch interior. The purpose of the clutch oil jet is to regulate the quantity of oil that gets to the clutch plates, and indirectly to the clutch booster surfaces. The sniggle here is that it appears that, under certain operating conditions, once the clutch is deprived of oil for awhile (ie: a blocked oil jet), the plates and/or other internal surfaces of the clutch and booster assembly become damaged to the point of exhibiting shifting problem. Even after oil flow is restored. In that case, replacement of the worn parts is needed to restore the clutch's smooth action. BTW, the clutch oil jet is listed in the "Scheduled Maintenance" to be removed and cleaned every 15,000 km. Doing this every oil change is an even better idea, especially if your clutch gets hard use.

KOTH: The clutch is lubricated with oil from the same passage as the transmission. After the crankshaft, pistons, rods, camchain, cams, and transmission gears and bearings are lubed, what's left goes to the interior of the wet clutch via the clutch oil restriction jet and through the pushrod passage to the interior of the clutch inner hub. Some of the oil in the inner hub is used to lubricate the sliding surfaces of the clutch booster. The remaining oil then flows through holes in the inner hub to lubricate the friction disks and the sliding surfaces of the clutch. After which the oil is flung out of the clutch to drain into the oil sump for pickup and return to the oil tank by the oil scavenger pump.

The clutch oil jet (located beneath a screw plug near the countershaft sprocket and clutch slave cylinder on the left side of the bike) size is selected to provide just the right amount of oil to the clutch. Too small a jet size and the clutch will not be lubed adequately, resulting in rough shifting and eventually worn clutch parts. Too large a jet and the clutch will be over lubed resulting in some of the same symptoms as under-lubing, plus a lowering of system oil pressure and accumulation of crankcase oil (overwhelming the scavenger pump) at idle speed.

The clutch also gets lubed with oil from the transmission via the mainshaft and countershaft roller bearings and to a degree from oil thrown off the counter balancer gear and pinion gear. The clutch also runs in whatever oil is pooled in the sump.

Originally, apparently it was decided that that was enough oil for the clutch for its intended use. After the first season of racing, it was obvious that it was not enough for racing conditions. The Rallye bikes were having clutch problems. Amongst other things, Feliciani (Meoni's mech) and others were putting larger and larger jets inplace of the plug to help lube the clutch better from the inside (via the pushrod passage).

In July of 2003, KTM started installing a small jet .30mm. This was supposed to be retrofitted to all previous models in a Tech Bulletin (0309/38/01-E) issued in September of that year

The Mattighofen engineers were reluctant to install an oil jet at first, but they allowed for one in the design.The oil jet selected for the 950/990 Adventure is a compromise based on the assumption that the bike will be used mainly on the street and gravel/dirt roads. If the bike is used hard (ie: slipping the clutch to manuver tight trails or get through rough terrain or deep sand, or racing conditions) the clutch jet size should be increased (.40 - .50mm) and possibly some modifications to the inner clutch hub made (AKA the Feliciani Mods) to accomodate the extra abuse. Don't go too big; unless you're racing the bike, the 1.0 mm size Feliciani talks about for desert racing is too big for non-racing use. Be advised that some "streetability" may be compromised even with the .40- .50mm sizes (ie: hard to find neutral, clunky shifting at slow speed, etc.). Best to start small and work your way up.  Have a spare .030mm so you can go back down when you get too big.

emelgee: ... it looks like the KTM OEM jet is the same type as the Dellorto 6413. A quick ebay search pulls up a seller offering sizes from 53 upto 172 at £2.99 each.

Moraflex: I was up on twisties this weekend and the bike only has 4800 miles on it. At the end of the 120 mile ride I noticed the up shifting took on a slightly different feel, in that it took two clicks to upshift one gear. Normally it's only one click. I took out the jet and sure enough, clogged! Blowing into the jet did not unclog it so I needed something else. I didn't happen to have a .010" wire laying around, but I did have two .005" wires which I twisted into a pair and that unclogged the hole. Took it for a test ride and it shifts in one click.

In the future, I will buy a High "E" .008" or .010" guitar string to poke out the hole without removing the jet. Turns it into a 10 minute job to be preformed every other month.

Why a guitar string you ask? Spring steel, wont break off and available everywhere.

Putting the Adventure Up On the Center Stand:
mcmann: Video of center stand deployment

KOTH: If you are having trouble deploying the center stand on your Adventure even after viewing the above video, it is possible that your bike has:

• Smaller wheels than stock
• Sagging or poorly adjusted suspension
• Wrong center stand for your bike

These are the centerstands manufactured for the various models of Adventure;

• 2003-2004 "S" Model- 60003022044 = 379mm
• 2003-2004 Standard - 60003022144 = 346mm
• 2005-2007 Standard - 6000302240030 = 333mm
• 2005-2006 "S" Model- 60003022144 = 346mm
• 2007 "S" Model - 60003022044 = 379mm

These are the sidestands:

• 2003-2004 "S" Model- 60003023000 = 349mm
• 2003-2004 Standard - 60003023100 = 319mm
• 2005 Standard - 6000302330030 = 302mm
• 2006-2007 Standard - 6010302310030 = 302mm
• 2005-2006 "S" Model- 60003023100 = 319mm
• 2007 "S" Model- 60003023000 = 349mm

Exhaust Pipes:
ElChico: At 31,300 miles the front exhaust on my 950 has snapped off/burnt through, thought you might like a laugh at the image - will try and up-load. Doesn't seem to let me attach the image... The pipe has burnt through just before the first connector where the balancer pipe is.
The bike is 04 buit - 05 registered. And because I took over servicing - in order to ensure it was done properly, it isn't covered by warranty.
The pipe is ordered: £137 + they changed the shape in 05 - can't get the 03-05 shape, so need a new heat shield piece at £45.25. + gasket £2.39 + graphite ring - goes into the connector £5.36. (For US $ just x by 2).
Stripped the pipe off today and it was easy, I was concerned that the exhaust studs would shear off - a la Jap bikes.. but no prob's, one nut undid and one stud unscrewed. So I'm ready to fit the new one, hope it lasts a bit better 'eh.
If you're bike is under warranty and you have actually ridden it you might be sensible having a good check for cracks etc.
Cheers

Catalytec Converter (CAT):
KOTH: The catalytic converter is installed in the main silencer and transforms most of the main toxic constituents into non-toxic compounds. It is designed as a three-way catalytic converter and consists of a coiled metal support whose surface is coated with precious metals such as platinum and rhodium; the coating only weighs 1 to 2 grams.

Similar to the lambda probe, the catalytic converter is not activated until a temperature of approx. 300º C is reached; it operates best between 400º C and 800º C. Thermal aging accelerates at a temperature of 800º C. Much higher temperatures occur if the ignition/injection system (e.g.: ignition faults) malfunctions, which can destroy the catalytic converter. The main constituents in the emissions are nitrogen (N2, not involved in combustion), carbon dioxide (CO2, the result of complete combustion) and water or steam (H2O, is bound in the fuel and released during combustion); together they comprise approx. 90% of emitted exhaust gas and are considered harmless. The rest mainly consists of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon (CO and HC, both the result of incomplete combustion) and nitrogen oxide (NOx, the result of high combustion chamber temperature); all three are toxic.

To effectively convert these 3 components into harmless carbon dioxide, water and nitrogen in the catalytic converter, the engine must be operated close to lambda 1 (1:14.7 AFR), i.e. the efficiency of combustion is greatest close to lambda 1. But lambda 1 is almost impossible to achieve by control engineering, which is why the control unit continuously (several times each second) produces mixtures alternating between lambda 0.97 (rich mixture) and 1.03 (lean mixture). Under these conditions the voltage generated by the lambda probe varies between 0.2 volt and 0.8 volt depending on the exhaust gas composition.

Euro Headlight (60014001000):
no_bmw_for_me:
1. Is the High Beam H3 or H7?
H3

2. Are the low and high beams on together, when the high beam is turned on?
Both together.

3, Is the high beam bulb the higher or the lower bulb in the housing?
Upper bulb is the high beam

Paochow: The Euro switch (60011074000) is a direct plug in as well. I repinned a few of my wires however..

Euro Switch standard...
1. Lights off-Brake light when actuated only
2. Parking light/Tailight only-Brake light when actuated
3. Headlight/Tailight-Brake light when actuated

Repinned Switch...
1. Lights off-Brake light when actuated only
2. Headlight/Tailight-Brake light when actuated
3. Headlight/Tailight and Aux lights-Brake light when actuated

I really didn't see the point of having the parking light running only, so the way I set it up I didn't need to mount an aux switch. Also the way it is set up I can run HID low beam/Aux lights and use the high beam to flash, when people seem to think my lights are to bright

North American Warranty:
BillWatt: Letter from KTM North America:
You are correct, the USA model 07 990 ADV has a 12 month 12,000 mile
warranty and the 08 model has a 24 month 24,000 mile warranty regardless of where you live.
Thank you,
Name and email withheld as requested
KTM North America Customer Service Manager

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (USA only)

Bike Colors:

Things to check before your warranty is up:

• Frame for cracks (especially around centerstand pivot)
• Engine block for cracks (especially where sidestand bolts up)
• Exhaust system for cracks (especially front head pipe)
• Check sidestend safety switch
• Front and Rear brake switches
• Check clutch safety switch
• Fuel tanks for leaks and proper operation of low fuel sensor
• Timing chain for slack (do the tensiorer preload test)
• Cylinder heads for leaks (do a leakdown test)
• Cams and buckets for wear (look for spauling and pitting)
• Clutch basket and clutch booster for wear
• Clutch m/c and slave for leaks
• Freewheel for wear
• Check torque limiter on '05-'06's (If it's "klacking" at all/anytime)
• Have a professional oil analysis done to check for bearing and gear wear
• Check brake rotors for cracks and warpage
• Check for bent or cracked rims, corroded spoke nipples, spokes
• Check for oil leaks (especially pressure switch, cylinders, filter covers, oil lines, and crankcase vent in airbox)
• Check fuel pump (look for corrosion and pitting of points)
• Check for signs of waterpump seal leakage (may not be covered)
• Check steeringhead, wheel, and swingarm beerings (may not be covered)
• All TSB's appropriate to your model year done. For example: '04: stator bolt loctite, cylinder head nuts/washers

MISC:
cmwoody: clutch disks off a KLR250/ZX10 fit... Or a rear brake rotor off a F650 fits. Or a Smoothbore CR needle fits in the Carbs Or Kawasaki ATV idle jets fit in there, or Minibike main jets are our airjets Or Aprilia V60/HD V-Rod valve shims fit in our bikes. Or Aprilia countershaft sprockets fit up with a slight modification.

gefr: clutch slave cylinder o-rings: outside diameter 27mm, thickness 1,7mm to 1,8 mm.

uk_mouse: .75 clutch oil jet: It's actually a Honda part (99101-GCG0750)

Model year differences:
KOTH: The following differences between model years are related to the actual year of manufacture of the bike, not the year on the registration. KTM's model year runs from July to July. Therefore new improvements and inovations are actually put into the public's hands six months early (or six months late, depending on how you look at it). For example, A true 2004 bike was manufactured between July 1, 2004 and June 30, 2005. A true 2005 bike between July 1, 2005 and June 30, 2006, etc, etc. The bikes are registered in their destination countries as the year they are delivered to the dealer. I don't know how other countries do it, but KTMNA has been known to keep bikes in their warehouse for six months and release them to the dealers after the start of the New Year. So just cuz your bike's registration says you have an '04, '05, '06, '07, etc. Doesn't necessarily mean you do. Many of the differences listed below are visible upon close examination of your bike. That and the build date from the KTM Dealer-Net are the surest way to tell the actual year of your Katoom. The designation XXXX.5 is not used in KTM's documentation to denote actual year of build, so look for yourself, if you really want to know (important for certain maintenance and tech Bulletins).

Differences between 2003 and 2004 (7/04-6/05) Adventures (USA):
Added black bikes and blue bikes to the line up
Black wheels ('03 had unpainted)
Color matched front fender ('03 are dull black, unpainted)
Different fork legs
Different rear shock
Added carb vents to the canister system
New oil tank
New fuel pump
New crankshaft and rods
New cylinders
New oil pressure switch
New pulse generator
New ignition rotor
New clutch pushrod (600.32.054.100)

Differences between 2004 and 2005 (7/05-6/06) Adventures (USA):
New chain slider on frame
Lower center stand and shorter sidestand
Shorter front brake hose
New swingarm pivot bolt
New front exhaust header
New heat shield for front exhaust
New fuel tank fill flanges
Carb de-icers
Lower suspension front and rear (different forks and rear shock)
New seat
New speedometer
Wider rear wheel: 4.25" wide (Up from 4")
New rear brake caliper pistons
Splash guard under triple clamp area of frame
New fan shroud (directs air away from rider)
Added a Torque limiter to the starting system
Redesigned engine case with added cylinder oil injectors(2)
New front sprocket chain protector
Added a main bearing retainer plate
Added a 2nd vacuum valve to the canister system
New balancer shafts with 2 piece timing gears
New cylinders
New exhaust valves
New valve buckets (intake and exhaust)
New head nuts and added washers
New oil dipstick (10mm longer)
New oil tank ball valve
New ECU
Added crankcase vent back pressure valve
New clutch pushrod (600.32.054.300)

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