Follow steps in order...., dial in:
1. Top end (full
throttle / 7.5k to redline
Best Main Jet must be
selected before starting step 2 (needle height)!
- Select Best Main Jet
- To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500
rpm), select the main jet that produces the hardest pull at high rpm.
- If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the
main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest until you find the main jet
that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up. This must be done first - before
moving on to the other tuning ranges.
- If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better when
fully warmed up, the main jet is too small.
- In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST
BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15 minutes of hard use!
- Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets -
you still need to be using the main jets that produce the best power at high rpm. You will
deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2.
- 2. Midrange (full throttle /5k-7k)
Step 1 (Best
Main Jet) must be selected before starting step 2!
- Select best needle clip position
- To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, adjust the
needle height, after you have already selected the
best main jet.
- If the engine pulls better or is smoother at full throttle/5k-7k
in a full throttle roll-on starting at <3k when cool but
soft and/or rough when at full operating temperature, it is too rich in the midrange and the needle
should be lowered.
- If the engine pulls better when fully warmed up but still not great between 5k-7k, try
raising the needle to richen 5k-7k.
- If the engine pulls equally well between 5k-7k when cooler as compared to fully warmed
up, the needle height is probably properly set.
- Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing needle clip
positions - you still need to be using the clip position that produces the best full
throttle / 5k-7k power in conjunction with the main jets (Step 1) that produce the best power at
high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise next.
3.Low end (full throttle / 2k-3k)
Step 1 (Best
Main Jet) and Step 2 (needle height) must be selected before starting step
3!
- Float height (AKA fuel level & How to)
- To get best low-end power, set float height (fuel level) so that the engine will accept full
throttle, without missing or stumbling, in 2nd gear from 2.5k to 3k rpm at minimum.
- Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from
the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the
float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve
spring.
- If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm,
that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level by resetting the float height
1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm). This will lower the fuel level,
making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm leaner.
- If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level.
- Example: change float height from 15mm to 14mm to richen up that area.
- REMEMBER, since the main jet WILL affect low speed operation, the MAIN JET has to be
within 1 or 2 sizes of correct before final float setting.
- Warning: If the engine is left with the fuel level too high,, the engine may foul plugs
on the street and will be "soft" and boggy at part throttle operation. Adjust
Floats to raise/ lower the Fuel Level.
- Base settings are usually given if a particular application has a history of fuel level
criticalness. The Fuel level height in the float bowl affects full throttle/low rpm and,
also, richness or leanness at cruise/low rpm.
- Reference: a bike that runs cleanly at small throttle openings when cold, but
starts to show signs of richness as it heats up to full operating temperature, will
usually be leaned out enough to be correct if the fuel level is LOWERED 1mm.
- If there are low-end richness problems, even after lowering the fuel level much more than
1.5mm from our initial settings, check for needle wear and needle jet (part of the
emulsion tube). See Worn Needle.
- 4. Idle and low rpm cruise
- Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)
- Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture
screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000
rpm
steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation.
- Idle Air Mixture Control screw settings, float level and idle air jet size are the primary
sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
- If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn
increments. Alternative idle air jets are can be installed if required.
- Idle Air Mixture Control screw settings, float level and idle air jet size also affect high-rpm,
0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is
operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or
increasing idle air jet size will usually cure the problem.
- NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
- If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set
idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the Idle Air Mixture Control screws are probably
set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
- NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
- If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up"
before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is
set at less than 1500 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to
richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than
1500 rpm!
- Carb Kit Design is a combination of science, art, intuition and and
at times, a fair dose of wizardry. There is no dyno that "tells" one how
to assemble or modify the carb to deliver proper power and response.
- Perfect Carb Kit TUNING requires patience and perseverance
and "reasonable" feel to feel the changes - of which - most motorcycle
riders have a good ability to do.
When a dyno "operator" says he/she has to ride the bike after dyno
tuning to do the final tune for cruise smoothness - that's what they are
doing. Avoid any dyno operator who says that they don't have to do
that!!!
The only dyno that I know of that will duplicate and visually display
the engine smoothness is the EC997 dyno (yes, I know, we make it) - that's one reason why, if you can, you'd
like to use one for tuning - a smoother engine IS getting the best
mixture. Other dynos claim to "tune to an "A/F Ratio" - probably the
biggest marketing scheme in the dyno industry at this time - and they
never can equal the quality of tune as designed.
Thanks!
Marc W. Salvisberg
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