Everything you wanted to know about what you can and can't do with the std toolkit

By:mookymoo


Ive long been impressed with :
a) the quality of the std toolkit.
b) the attention to detail on the bike such that it requires so few tools

Everyone wants to travel light and compact (at least I strive to), so carrying as few tools as possible saves weight and space.

The std toolkit is my starting point. Having done a bunch of different work on my 950 Adv(s) now, in usually less-than-ideal conditions (ie outside my flat, by the side of the road ), I have built up a bit of a list of what you can and cant do with the standard toolkit - and what 'missing' tools you need to complete a given task. The idea being people can make an informed decision on what tools they might supplement their std toolkit with for that minimalist approach.

The point of this thread is not a "toolkit thread" (theres already a very good one of those).
The point of this thread is to detail what you can do with the standard toolkit - and what extra tool(s) you might need for certain tasks.


I will endevour to update this first post with the details as they come to hand (via my own experience or via feedback)

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Assumed:
Obviously, all tanks, panels, ktm crashbars, ktm luggage racks & wheels can be removed with the standard toolkit.
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Remove, service Carburettors
All this can be done with the standard toolkit.
Except for: I found the stock screwdriver to be a good fit for the jets.
You need to be careful with the phillips screwdriver though - the fit is ok, but not perfect.
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Remove Forks
All this can be done with the standard toolkit.
No additional tools needed
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Remove Shock
All this can be done with the standard toolkit.
Except for: All bets are off though, if you drop that bolt inside the swingarm.
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Changing/Replacing Brake lines
This requires a 14mm spanner/socket for the banjo bolts
Also see Brake Bleeding
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Brake Bleeding
This requires an 11mm open-ended spanner for the bleed nipple
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Remove Triple Clamps
All this can be done with the standard toolkit.
Except for:

The steering stem nut requires the use of the largest of the large spanners - and the handle of one of the smallest of large spanners. Place the handle end-in to make the bolt-head larger so the larger fits tightly.
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Replace Front Brake Pads
My technique might be shite here - but I am sure you need a fine pin-punch to get the pins out.
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Remove Handlebars, guards and all hand controls
All this can be done with the standard toolkit.
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Remove/Change Drive Sprocket
All this can be done with the standard toolkit. BUT you might well need some instruments of persuasion (hammers & levers) if its stuck on.
You can loosen the nut if you keep the rear wheel & chain on - one of the tricks I learned of here (but not yet practised). If you place the large spanner on the nut with the stubby handle resting on the swingarm, then rotate the tyre to raise the handle and SLAM it back down. Effectively using the swingarm to hammer the spanner and loosen the nut. Dont forget the locking plate first ...
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Rear Shock Compression/Rebound adjustment
The 950 toolkit is missing a 17mm socket for high-speed adjustment
The 990 toolkit has one!
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Fork Preload Adjustmen
Can be done with the smaller of the large spanners - but only if you dont have bleed valves.
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Side Stand Removal
Requires a 14mm Ring or open-ended spanner
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Centre Stand Removal
Requires a 17mm socket/spanner.
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Oil Change
A 19mm socket (or ring spanner) is needed for the sump plug. At a pinch, you can use the larger of the spanners in the toolkit, and the handle of the smaller spanner (much the same trick as the steering stem nut) - but you will be hard pressed to crack the seal with this combination.
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Water Pump Seal Replacement
If youre just replacing the seal & shaft, and not the bearings, this can easily be done on the roadside.
Requires a 13mm socket for the exhaust header nuts.
Requires circlip pliers
Use the plastic handle of the T-handle to gently tap at the outer clutch cover to remove it without breaking the gasket.
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Touratech Parts
... are a pain in the ass! They usually always introduce a new tool size requirement. That said, I think they boil down to:
GPS Bracket: 3mm Hex/Allen & 4mm Hex/Allen
High Fender Kit: Forget about it. All sorts of microscopic shite. But 4mm Hex/Allen is your main one.

And here is the std 950 Adventure Toolkit (everything within that red box)

(Image by cpmodem)


And here is the std 990 Adventure Toolkit

AFAIK: The 990 toolkit is missing the spark plug wrench, but has a 17mm socket (for the shocks) and has a 14mm open-ended spanner

=================
The 950 Toolkit contains:
Sockets: 6, 8, 10mm
Open-ended spanners: 8/10mm and 10/13mm
Ring Spanners: 24mm, 32mm
Hex/Allen: 5mm, 6mm (by way of T-handle), 8mm (for subframe bolts)
Phillips/Flat screwdriver

=================
The 990 Toolkit contains:
Sockets: 6, 8, 10, 17mm
Open-ended spanners: 8/10mm, 10/14mm & ??
Ring Spanners: 24mm, 32mm
Hex/Allen: 5mm, 6mm (by way of T-handle), 8mm (for subframe bolts), 12mm for rear shock
Torqz: ??
Phillips/Flat screwdriver

=================
Extra tools you might need:
3mm Hex / Allen key - for carb drains & carb horn adapters
4mm Hex / Allen key - to remove the seat lock so you can get all the panels off!
7mm open-ended spanner - for carb heater earth connection
11mm open-ended spanner - for brake bleed nipple
12mm Hex/Allen key (950 toolkit owners) - for Shock mounting bolts
13mm socket - for exhaust header nuts (required for access to water pump seal)
14mm open-ended or ring spanner (950 toolkit owners) - for brake banjo bolts, sidestand removal
17mm Socket/Ring spanner (950 toolkit owners) - for shock high speed adjustment, centre stand removal
19mm Socket/Ring spanner - for engine oil drain plug

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